OGDENSBURG – You can say Executive Chef John VanKennen has grown up in the kitchen with many of his early childhood memories centering around time spent in the kitchen with his grandmother.
“Between the ages of four and five, I started cooking with my grandmother,” he said. At an age when most children were playing with toy cars or trying to help Mario rescue Princess Toadstool, Mr. VanKennen was learning how to cook.
As soon as he could get a job, he did, and you guessed it, in the restaurant business. “I’ve been an executive chef now for 17 years, working at various restaurants across the North Country and in the Boston area,” he said.
A career in the restaurant business that has now spanned more than 30 years, all began when he was 14, working as a dishwasher at a restaurant near his home in the Potsdam-area. Following his graduation from Norwood-Norfolk, Mr. VanKennen ventured to Paul Smith’s College where he earned a degree in Culinary Arts.
After college, Mr. VanKennen moved to the Boston-area, working for and learning from chefs at some of the city’s finest restaurants. However, after about 10 years away, Mr. VanKennen realized he missed the peace and tranquility of North Country life. “I knew the city wasn’t where I wanted to raise my children and I moved back home,” he said.
Over the year’s Mr. VanKennen has worked in several restaurants across the area, but since starting at the Gran-View in August, he says he feels like he’s found his home away from home.
“We don’t just serve food here, we cultivate memories and I would like for people to join us on this journey,” he said.
Mr. VanKennen said it’s important to note he’s not talking about his own journey, but rather the journey of a restaurant that’s been a staple of North Country Dining for more than 50 years.
“I feel like this restaurant belongs to the community,” he said. The legacy left behind by the Gran-View’s previous owners isn’t something that’s lost on him either.
“I want to pay respect to the Williams family. They worked very hard to get this restaurant where it is,” he said.
His respect for that legacy is the main reason why items like Chicken Michael aren’t currently on the menu.
“Someone could tell me that’s the way it was prepared, but if I’m not seeing it done for myself, how do I know?” he asked. “When I get a chance to sit down with Lou and he can show me exactly how he makes those staples, we’ll use those items as a featured dish from time to time.”
People can have very fond memories associated with food and that’s not something Mr. VanKennen said he does not wants to mess with. “If someone comes here for Chicken Michael, I want to give them Chicken Michael. I don’t want to give them another dish that we’re simply calling Chicken Michael. I want them to take that first bite and have the memories of that first date with someone special come rushing back.”
The key to success, he said is being a part of the community and making sure that everyone who works at the restaurant knows they’re an important part of the team. “I don’t care if you’re a dishwasher, a server, someone working in the kitchen, or even a customer celebrating a birthday or anniversary you are a part of what makes this such a special place.” he said.
The Gran-View is open Monday through Thursday from 4 pm to 8 pm and Friday and Saturday from 4 to 9 pm. Reservations are not necessary but can be made by calling (315) 393-4550.